With the turquoise waters of the Adriatic and gentle green pines surrounding her, Mary Novakovich describes her peaceful end-of-summer escape to the quieter islands of Zlarin and Prvić. In an interview about her travels on October 7, 2024, she highlights how her journey took a different path than the typical Croatian island-hopping route, which often emphasizes well-known spots like Split, Hvar, and Brač.
“Šibenik itself is a hidden gem,” Mary shares. “It’s relatively crowd-free compared to other coastal cities in Croatia. People are naturally drawn to the breathtaking UNESCO-listed St. James Cathedral, and then they often relax at the café terraces along the Riva waterfront or enjoy the bars by the fishing boats moored at the quayside.” She adds that the medieval St. Michael’s Fortress, along with its 17th-century Venetian counterparts, provides a stunning backdrop. “These fortresses were built to fend off Ottoman attacks and have since become cultural sites, with St. Michael’s hosting concerts and Barone functioning as an outdoor cinema.”
As she explored further, Mary reflected on the history that drove locals to seek refuge on the islands during Ottoman threats. “Today, it’s a car-free oasis in the Šibenik archipelago,” she explains, reminiscing about her 25-minute ferry ride to Zlarin, one of the six inhabited islands. “Zlarin village is car-free except for a few emergency vehicles and the occasional film crew. Instead, transportation consists of golf buggies, bicycles, and the rare scooter.”
During her stay on Zlarin, she rented an apartment with a breathtaking terrace that overlooked the bay. “The view of the vividly blue sea against the terracotta rooftops and deep green Aleppo pines was just stunning,” she recalls. “It quickly became my paradise for relaxation.”
Reflecting on her previous visit just a few months earlier, she reveals her growing curiosity about Zlarin and its even smaller neighbor, Prvić. “These small island communities have such unique stories and the unhurried lifestyle I craved as summer came to a close.”
Zlarin, with its charming harbor filled with boats and bustling bars, was exactly what she envisioned. “You could see visitors enjoying their coffee in the sunshine, while the pebbly beaches—warm in September—beckoned for morning swims.” She also praises the local eateries that serve exceptional seafood in rustic settings.
As she delved deeper into Zlarin, she learned about its historical importance as a coral harvesting community, a trade that supported its small population for generations. “It was fascinating to discover that Zlarin was once Croatia’s largest coral supplier until the Italian market started sourcing its own in the 1970s,” she explains.
While tourism has since flourished, transforming the village atmosphere, Mary found Zlarin’s charm to remain intact during her quiet September visit.
When she moved on to Prvić, Mary was enchanted by the smaller island, which features two picturesque villages and a welcoming population. “The vibe here was just as delightful,” she describes, noting the absence of cars and the lovely stone homes adorned with colorful shutters. “My flat in Šepurine was perfectly located by the village square and fishing port.”
Exploring Prvić allowed her to embrace the slow island life. She discovered the culinary talents of Krešimir Kursar, a chef who returned after years abroad to reclaim local traditions. “Hearing stories of locals coming back to their roots and positively impacting the community was heartwarming,” she shares.
Mary also highlights the genuine warmth of the people she encountered, like Goran and Lenka Franić, who took her on a squid-fishing adventure. “Listening to Goran’s journey from renowned musician to local boat renter made the experience even more memorable,” she adds. “Their singing of traditional Dalmatian songs created a beautiful soundtrack to my trip, making it one I wished would never end.”
Her journey through Croatia, organized by croatia.hr, offers a glimpse into a more serene side of the Adriatic. Accommodations at Heritage Hotel Life Palace in Šibenik start from €95, with affordable rental options available in Zlarin and Prvić.
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